s

Journeys

  • Capri
  • Author avatar
    Oliver Guide

Capri

Written and Travelled by Oliver Guide, Corre Larkin

Getting there

  • From Naples take a taxi down to the port and then every hour on the hour there is a ferry to Capri. There is a set price for the taxi from the airport to the port. If you are not aware, the taxi driver will overcharge you. Look at his rate card and only pay that rate. 
  • Be very careful of your belongings at the port, if you are not careful you will find yourself with your passport missing. (Once you get to Capri you can relax. No one is going to steal your watch or passport on Capri!!)
  • The ferry is 45 minutes and takes you into Marina Grande on Capri. There is no need to pre-purchase ferry tickets, buy them in the port.
  • When you arrive on Capri your luggage will travel separately (don't worry they won't lose or steal it) to your hotel or villa, you will take a taxi up to the piazzetta and walk the remainder to your hotel or you take a taxi to the Anacapri side. (Always remember to pack a swim suit or change of clothes in your purse as the luggage can take up to 4-5 hours sometimes to get to you.)

 

Where to Stay

Our favorite hotel (and I have stayed at many of them on the island) is Hotel La Minerva. The service is out of this world. The two owners are brothers whose grandfather started the hotel, they are genuinely like family. The hotel is only18 rooms and books up way in advance.  If you aren't lucky enough to stay at Minerva, the other hotels I love are:

  • Hotel La Canasta: A few doors up from Minerva, owned by the Minerva brothers Uncle. Slightly more rustic but has the same family feel. 
  • Villa Brunella: Some of the best views in town
  • JK Place: Beautiful but not walking distance to the piazzetta.
  • Casa MorganoLa Scalinatella are both great.
  • Grand Hotel Quisisana: If you want to seen and be seen, then stay here. You are sure to spot a celeb having a drink on the terrace.
  • Capri Palace Hoteland Caesar Augustus: Stunning hotels on the Anacapri side where I have only had dinner or drinks.  I prefer to be able to walk to everything when I am in Capri.

 

Where to Eat and Drink

My favorite lunch places on the island areFontelina and Il Riccio. Both are beach clubs and require reservations made way in advance. Drink the sangria--not sweet and is full of gorgeous fruit. Eat the Linguine Fontelina, pasta with uni (riccio in italian), or octopus. Drink the local Falanghina white wine. Il Riccio has a Michelin star, but don't let that throw you. The atmosphere is laid back and the food is exceptional. Leave room for their famous Dessert Room.

  • Have a drink in the piazzetta or the terrace at Quisisana before dinner.
  • We like drinking at Bar Piccolo. If you are staying on the island for awhile then find one of the cafes in the piazzetta and stick with it. The waiters are all about loyalty!
  • Perhaps my favorite dinner spot is Gelsomina on the Anacapri side. They meet you in the square and take you in their car up tiny streets to the top of the island. Walk through the restaurant to Via Migliera and take in the incredible views of the light house and Faraglioni (the famous rocks). Their grilled calamari and grilled lamb are to die for as is their pacchieri with shrimp. I typically just tell them to bring me whatever they want and am always happy. Other favorites are:
  • Da Paolina: Order the chicken under a brick with lemon risotto
  • Pulalli Wine Bar: Up near the clock tower in the piazzetta - order grilled calamari
  • Le Grotelle: A hike but it's worth it for the family feel and the rabbit penne
  • Da Tonino: Fabulous food and again off the beaten path, more gourmet
  • Lo Zodiaco: On it's own in Marina Grande and often full of Caprese people out trying to escape the tourists!

 

What to do

STAY FOR AT LEAST 2-3 NIGHTS. A day trip to Capri is like going to Napa and not tasting the wine or eating the food. You get to see a pretty place, but you don't really get to experience what the island has to offer.  If you only come for the day you will never ever truly see Capri for what it is. People who come to Capri every year, of which there are many of us, can't imagine staying for less than 7-10 days. No, you won't get bored.

  • Take a boat trip around the island
  • Shop on Via Camarelle
  • Take the chairlift up to Monte Solaro

SKIP IT

The restaurant Aurora. Yes there are celebs there. But there are celebs all over the island. At Aurora their thin crust pizzas come with a whole lot of attitude. Marina Grande during the day. It's chock full of day trippers and madness and the food is overpriced and bad. If the restaurant has a plastic menu of the food with pictures to go with it, skip it.


Kelly's Packing List- Capri

Capri draws a chic crowd, so pack things that are a bit more dressy than your average beach resort.  These Chimi sunglasses are a new obsession- they come in loads of fun colors and many of them are under $100. I love a chic printed short with a flowy top for afternoon shopping and gelato, these from Rhodes Resort are definitely on my shopping list. This is great maillot from Adriana Degreas. Both are available  through Matches Fashion. My husband gave me a similar cuff from Mignonne Gavigone for Christmas, and it packs flat and would look great with a kaftan for lunch. The hotel Le Sireneuse has a new line of clothing with prints that are sublime. This dress from Tre is perfect for dinner.  I like just mascara and a bit of shimmer on my cheeks after a day at the beach, Australian Becca does it best.  Our new linen Big Daddy with blue leather straps comes with a clear pvc and leather pouch to snap out for town.  And finally, Capri's streets are cobblestone, pack flats like these from Zimmerman. 

  • Author avatar
    Oliver Guide